透明聚酯浇铸树脂

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价格 ¥104.71
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产品介绍

质量一流的透明聚酯浇铸树脂,适用于透明雕刻浇铸品、产品预埋、珠宝制造和布景设计。供应的树脂包含MEKP催化剂、测量注射器和丁腈手套。

该树脂是替代较价格较高的透明聚氨酯浇铸树脂的低成本选择。粘度低,使其适合在浇铸雕刻品时复制表面精细的细节,在用透明树脂封装/预埋产品(比如纸镇)时确保优异的浸透性。该树脂的活性反应较低,使其能够一次性浇铸而不变形不褪色;同时,聚酯树脂天生的防紫外线能力,可使最终产品即使在长期暴露于户外光照下也不会褪色。

透明聚酯浇铸树脂同样有一些比聚氨酯浇铸树脂优异的特点,它对湿度敏感度较弱,因此在一些特定的场合聚酯浇铸树脂比聚氨酯浇铸树脂更加常用,特别对那些含水量较高的有机物。尽管聚酯浇铸树脂对湿度敏感较弱,但是在封装时尽量保持干燥还是很重要的,必要时会采取一些措施来保证(见产品数据表)。

使用建议

  • 封装/包裹产品(比如纸镇)
  • 珠宝制造
  • 透明雕刻品/艺术品(玻璃样的浇铸品)
  • 布景设计特征(比如池塘、湖等)
  • 布景设计特征(比如池塘、湖等)
  • 染色的玻璃效果*
  • 浇铸一个半透明有色的艺术品*

*需要染色颜料

包装

可用包装有:1KG, 5KG ,25KG. 根据您的需要选择合适包装。

包装中包含:1只测量注射器,MEKP催化剂,丁腈手套。

完整说明

需要完整的产品信息,包括技术建议和封装不同类型产品,请下载本公司的透明聚酯浇铸树脂说明书

半透明染色颜料

该树脂很容易被本公司的半透明颜色颜料来创造漂亮的各种颜色效果。

简单的添加一滴或少许这种染色剂,就可以得到令人惊奇的颜色。

用这种方式着色可以使样品、珠宝或工艺品更具生动色彩。

选择正确的树脂体系(聚酯或聚氨酯)

本公司有两款透明型的浇铸树脂:这款聚酯浇铸树脂,和另一款聚氨酯浇铸树脂。两款树脂都可以应用在类似的项目上,所以哪一款更加适合你用呢?如下对照表:

透明聚酯 透明聚氨酯
价格 低成本 较高成本
透明度 很好 极其好
极其好 一般 非常敏感
防紫外线 极其好 极其好
脱气必要性 不必要 建议脱气
固化后,接触空气的表面质量 粘性 干净,清澈
反应性 可调(通过比例) 固定的,快速反应
寿命(工作时间) 30分钟 5分钟
固化/脱模 8-24小时 (取决于固化剂比例) 1小时
染色性? 是的,使用聚酯染色颜料 是的,使用聚氨酯染色颜料
最大浇铸厚度 75mm (per layer) 15mm (per layer)

运输及配送信息

这款产品不能从英国向境外发货,国外客户不能购买此产品,国际货运受限。

点击此处获取更多信息。

技术问题


Can I pour this resin over a polystyrene part?

No, our Waterclear Polyester Resin contains styrene which will dissolve polystyrene. If you need a water-clear resin that you can use directly onto polystyrene then we would recommend either our Waterclear Polyurethane Casting Resin or, if you need a clear resin but perfect clarity is not necessary then something like our EL2 Epoxy Laminating Resin could also work well and is a more cost-effective option.


Can I use an ordinary ice cream tub to hold the resin for embedding objects?

Probably. It depends what the icecream tub is made from. It's likely that it's made from polyethylene or polypropylene in which case the polyester should release from it naturally. I would suggest testing a small amount first to make sure it comes away easily with no adverse reaction.


Is it possible to add metal powders to this resin to create a metallic cast?

Yes, certainly; there's a few ways you can do this. You can dust metal powders into the mould first to add a slight metallic tint or you can mix the powders into the resin and then cast your piece. Following either process, you can enhance the metallic appearance by rubbing the cast piece with wire-wool to bring out the shine in the metal powders. You can also use polyester colour pigments in the resin, in combination with metal powders to make some very realistc metallic castings.


Can I use Uni-Mould based moulds with this resin for larger castings?

Yes, you can use Uni-Mould based moulds. However, you will need to use a mould release agent such as our Easy-Lease Chemical Release Agent to prevent the resin sticking to the mould. Also take care to ensure you do not pour layers deeper than 75mm in one go to prevent heat damage or discolouration.


When casting multiple layers, how visible is the boundary between the different layers?

Generally speaking you can only see the layer boundary when you look closely from particular angles. You will find there is a very slight refractive difference as the light passes through the boundary giving a boundary which is just about visible. In most cases it really is hard to spot.


I would like to embed metal items onto a table top using Waterclear Polyester Casting resin. How durable will the finished surface be?

For a primarily decorative piece with little use, this resin will produce good results, however it is not particularly scratch-resistant and so would be less suited for a table in regular use. Hot objects such as hot-drinks or plates would need to be avoided too. It’s important to note that any part of this resin that cures in contact with air will remain ‘tacky’ which means that if you pour a table-top, the open face will remain tacky. The easiest way to overcome this is to add some Solution MW Wax Additive to the resin (or if you’re doing multiple pours, to the resin on the last pour) which will allow the resin to cure hard on the surface. Other options are to sand and polish the tacky surface away or to pull a release film over the wet resin whilst it cures, preventing the surface from being in air contact.


Can I use this resin in vases as artificial water to hold the artificial flowers in place?

No, in most circumstances we would not recommend this resin as artificial water for flower arrangements. The reason is that if it’s a glass or ceramic vase then casting any rigid resin into it can be risky because the cast resin and the vase will expand and contract differently with variations in temperature. If you cast a rigid resin into a glass vase then it’s quite possible for the resin to expand a crack the vase. If you are using a glass vase then you would need to use a flexible clear casting resin which we don’t have in our range at the moment.

On the other hand, if it’s a plastic vase that you’re pouring into, such as acrylic or Perspex then it’s likely that a polyester casting resin like this would have an adverse reaction on the plastic of the vase and therefore should also be avoided. In this case, a clear epoxy casting resin should be used.


Can I use this to fill large natural holes within an oak board, whilst also embedding objects within the resin.

Yes this product would be suitable for this task. For best results add a little Solution MW Wax Gelcoat Additive to the resin to remove the surface tackiness associated with air curing of polyester resins. Once cured, you can simply sand smooth to be flush with the surrounding wood and polish the resin to a high gloss shine to show off the embedded items. Polishing would be best done using a range of increasingly fine abrasive papers and then polishing compound.


Can the Water Clear Polyester Casting Resin be used to coat a decorative table top?

In theory yes, Water Clear Polyester Casting Resin can be used in this way but polyesters have certain characteristics that you need to be aware of in order to make the best job of this. The main problem to overcome is to avoid ending up with the tacky surface normally associated with Polyester resins when it cures in contact with the air. We have found the best technique is to add around 1% of Solution MW Wax Additive to the resin. This will rise to top during curing and create a barrier between the resin and the air, ensuring that it cures without a tacky finish. What this will leave however is a slight ‘dithering’ on the surface which can either be left ‘as-is’ or polished to a full gloss using finer abrasive papers and polishing compound to ‘flat out’ the surface and polish it up to a full gloss.


I have used this resin to cast thin (2mm) window section. After curing, the surface remained tacky, how to I remove this?

Polyester casting resin will always remain tacky on the surface where it's been in contact with air. The best way to 'remove it' is to prevent it in the first place which would be acheived by placing some release-film or visqueen onto the surface of the resin whilst it cures. If you do this then you won't have the tacky surface.

Given that you do now have the tacky surface, the only thing to do would be to abrade it away and polish the surface. Rubbing gently on some abrasive paper, going up through the grits and finishing with a polishing compound would be the way to go.


Can I use this in a silicone mould?

Yes, certainly. Both of our types of silicone could be used but generally you'll get better results when casting water clear resins (polyurethane or polyester) by using an Addition Cure Silicone Rubber.


The resin does not seem to cure as quickly when I cast thinner amounts. I don't see how this can have an effect?

Thickness will certainly effect the cure speed of a casting. In a thicker casting, the resin gives off heat as it cures, as it gives off heat it cures faster which in turn causes it to give off more heat which then causes it to cure faster. This process is called exotherm. In a thinner section this process is much less pronounced (in fact hardly occurs at all) which is why thinner sections will cure much more slowly than thicker sections and so explains why higher catalyst ratios (up to 3%) are used for thin castings when low catalyst ratios (down to 0.5%) are used for much larger castings.

Ambient temperature (the room temperature you’re working in) also has a significant effect on the cure time; working in cooler conditions the resin will take much longer to cure compared to working in warmer conditions. For this reason, catalyst ratio can also be adjusted to compensate for warmer or colder conditions.


I have purchased the polyester resin to dip cast a sheep heart specimen, preserved in formalin and then washed off and put in phenoxetol. How do I dry this product and how long should I leave before using the resin?

I'm not 100% sure I know what you mean by 'dip casting', maybe you mean encapsulate/embed (i.e. pour resin all around) or perhaps you mean something more like coating the specimen so that it's not suspended in a resin but instead still has its original shape, just with a plastic sealed coating?

If you do mean to encapsulate/embed it then this might need some experimentation because organic specimens can be quite tricky to encapsulate without adverse reactions with the resin. I think I would suggest simply patting the specimen dry very thoroughly and then dipping it in some un-catalysed then removing it and leaving it over night. The next day you can proceed with encapsulating it by putting it in your mould and pouring the resin around it. Remember that experimentation first with organic specimens is very important.


What I should use to flat and polish the surface of the cured resin?

You should be able to flat and polish the cast polyester resin just like you would any other plastic which means that you can use abrasive papers and polishing compound to polish and buff it to a gloss finish.


What do I use as a material in which to embed an object before pouring resin into a mould?

There wouldn't normally be a different material that you would use to embed the object in first. Some objects (particularly organic matter) need some extra pre-work before encapsulating them, such as dipping them in resin the night before, but they should not need a different type of resin or material for this purpose. Please take a look at the technical datasheet for much more info on this type of preparation.


Can you use this resin to encapsulate a terminal block within a junction box? Will it be able to withstand water and outdoor conditions?

In theory, yes; you could use a clear polyester resin as a 'potting' resin however polyesters are rarely used for this purpose for a few reasons - the main one being that there are quite a few materials (plastics) which could be attacked by the styrene in the polyester resin meaning that you could find insulators or components on a PCB being affected by the resin. Another reason is that polyester resins are subject to more shrinkage than alternatives such as epoxy and polyurethane. For this reason, most electrical potting is done using epoxy resin; it has excellent resistance to water, is incredibly unlikely to have any adverse reaction with other materials and has a very low shrinkage. We don't sell an epoxy resin specifically as a casting/potting resin but our EL2 Epoxy Laminating Resin used with our SLOW hardener would by fine for small to medium sized electrical potting applications.

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